Archive for November, 2007
Friday, November 30th, 2007
The city of Himeji boasts Japan’s most impressive-looking surviving castle. A castle was first built on the site in 1333 but was largely destroyed in the subsequent civil wars. The present form was built in 1601.
Even though it is made mostly of wood and plaster it has not burned down since, even when the city was bombed to rubble during the Second World War. However much of the original wood was replaced in a restoration project begun in the 1950s.
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Wednesday, November 28th, 2007
Doutonbori Street is Osaka’s primary entertainment district. It comes to life at night: bright, noisy and crowded.
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Tuesday, November 27th, 2007
An interesting cluster of temples is located near the center of Koya-san, where Kobodaishi first established his monastery.
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Monday, November 26th, 2007

This movie is primarily a parody of 3 classic Disney features: Sleeping Beauty, Snow White and Cinderella. The producers didn’t need to worry about the iron fangs and razor claws of Disney’s Intellectual Property lawyers because Disney is the distributor.
In the magical kingdom of Andelasia a beautiful maiden named Giselle (Amy Adams) falls in love with a brave, handsome and somewhat dim-witted prince (James Marsden). Before they can get married the evil queen (Susan Sarandon) banishes her to “a place where there is no ‘Happily Ever After’” (New York City); a place so awful that the only person willing to help Giselle is a cynical divorce lawyer (Patrick Dempsey).
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Monday, November 26th, 2007
We leave the cemetery by the “corporate monuments path,” along which major corporations have built monuments for the spiritual benefit of their workers (and also possibly for the advertising value.)
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Monday, November 26th, 2007
Many years ago, in a time when the land was wracked by famine, a baby girl was abandoned by her desperate parents. An elderly couple found the child and decided to raise her themselves. They were poor but good-hearted, and many were the nights that they went hungry so that the little girl could have food.
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Sunday, November 25th, 2007
At the heart of the cemetery lies the Okunoin, a temple or mausoleum built over the cave where Kobodaishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism, has spent the last 1,100 years in deep meditation to save this world. This is a big job and he is expected to finish it in approximately 5.7 billion years, just in time for the Miroku (Maitreya) Buddha to come to Earth and take everyone to Heaven.
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Saturday, November 24th, 2007
On the eastern side of the plateau there is a gigantic cemetery, centuries old, where monuments for half a million people sit beneath towering 700-year-old trees.
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Saturday, November 24th, 2007
There are no hotels in Koya-san itself, but there are about 50 temples that will accommodate overnight guests for a reasonable fee. The Shojoshinin is one of the few that will accept Westerners.
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Saturday, November 24th, 2007
Koya-san is an alpine basin located in the mountains south of Osaka. It is the headquarters of the Shingon sect of esoteric Buddhism. It was first settled in the year 816 by the monk Kukai, who usually referred to today by the name Kobodaishi.
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Friday, November 23rd, 2007
A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn, but “traditional” does not necessarily mean “primitive” or “austere.” Often they are equipped with all the latest modern conveniences.
For example the toilet in my bathroom had a complicated control panel with numerous buttons, all labeled in Japanese. This was intimidating since my Japanese is pretty limited and I can’t read kanji at all.
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Friday, November 23rd, 2007
The Asunaro Ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) is similar to most such establishments. It has an old-fashioned look but provides most modern conveniences.
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Friday, November 23rd, 2007
Takayama is noted for its spectacular Spring and Autumn Festivals which feature huge wooden floats: centuries old, brightly painted and intricately carved. Between festivals the floats can be seen in this museum.
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2007
The Hida Folk Village (Hida no Sato) is a collection of traditional village houses dating from the 18th through the early 20th centuries. Many of them were moved here to preserve them when waters from a nearby hydroelectric dam eliminated a number of old villages.
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Wednesday, November 21st, 2007
In 1692 the region was placed under the direct rule of the Tokugawa Shogunate. The Jinya served as the official residence and headquarters of the Shogon’s governor, as well as a warehouse for storing taxes (which were paid in sacks of rice.) The building was actually used for government offices right though the 1960s, but has now been converted into a museum.
At one time there were 55 such Jinyas located around Japan. This is the only one that survives.
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Wednesday, November 21st, 2007
Takayama is an ancient city in the mountains of central Honshu. Its present form dates back to the 16th Century, but the area has been settled for much longer than that. Because of its relative isolation the area has a distinctive culture.
The region is known for fine woodworking and for the expensive Hida beef, which is extremely tender and very high in fat content.
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Tuesday, November 20th, 2007
Below, a shinkansen (bullet train) pulls into Tokyo Station.
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Monday, November 19th, 2007
Iemitsu, the third Tokugawa Shogun, was not content with building the world’s most elaborately decorated shrine for his grandfather. He also build an elaborate mausoleum for himself, located a short distance away. This is the Taiyuinbyo, which also serves as a functioning Buddhist temple.
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Sunday, November 18th, 2007

This movie is a gentle, lightweight romantic comedy. It doesn’t have much in the way of dramatic tension, but it is still fun to watch.
Dan Burns (Steve Carell) is a widower with three lovely daughters. He is a responsible man and a good father, perhaps just a little overprotective. He meets a beautiful woman (Juliette Binoche) in a bookstore and falls for her hard.
When he learns that she is actually his brother’s girlfriend he becomes a little bit unglued and starts acting like a jerk. Sort of. Actually he doesn’t do anything really horrible, but he has the misfortune to be a member of The World’s Most Obnoxiously Perfect Extended Family, which makes even small deviations look pretty awful by comparison.
As I said, there’s not much dramatic tension here. It’s pretty obvious from the start how things will work out. Nevertheless it manages to be very funny and heartwarming and entertaining.
Rated PG-13 for no particular reason. I can’t imagine that any child would be harmed by it.
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Sunday, November 18th, 2007
Before he died Ieyasu Tokugawa, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, requested that a simple shrine be built for him so that he could serve as a guardian kami for the Japanese nation. The shrine was eventually built by his grandson Iemitsu, the third Tokugawa Shogun, but it was anything but simple. Most Shinto shrines are unpretentious, even austere. This is the most ornate Shinto shrine in Japan.
Ieyasu is still revered because he brought an end to a long series of bloody civil wars and began a period of peace an prosperity that lasted more than 250 years.
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Saturday, November 17th, 2007
Nikko is a small city located about 140 km from Tokyo. It is an easy day trip, and well worth it since it contains some of the most impressive temples and shrines in Japan.
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Thursday, November 15th, 2007
This is the place to go to find electronics (not to mention manga and anime.) It is packed with a wide range of retail establishments, ranging from seedy little shops to giant megamarts.
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Thursday, November 15th, 2007
The Ginza district is full of fancy upscale stores.
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Wednesday, November 14th, 2007
Sensouji is the oldest and most famous Buddhist temple in Tokyo. Its origins date back to the year 628 when two guys were fishing in the Sumida River…
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Tuesday, November 13th, 2007
Tsukiji is the largest fish market in the world. It dates back to the Edo period and now processes about 20% of the world’s catch. Don’t read further if you don’t want to see big, dead fish.
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Monday, November 12th, 2007
I just got back from Japan, and now I have several hundred photos to sort thorough. This will take me several days at least.
I am going to post the more interesting ones. Out of consideration to readers who may lack bandwidth or just not be interested, I will begin each post with a short introductory paragraph, then put the actual photos below the fold.
All Entries For This Trip.
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